Not at all. Traditionally, rigid heddle looms were used by angling the loom from your lap up to a table edge or counter top. This is a very good way to use your Harp. But if you want to weave where there is no table or other suitable support, then consider a floor stand. Read this info for more considerations.

Yes. All Kromski rigid heddle looms allow for the installation of a second set of heddle blocks - positioned just behind the first set. Just add a second heddle of the same dent size.

While 32" may seem large, it will not be a factor. Do a test. Hold your arms out to your sides and calculate the distance from elbow to elbow. Divide by 2. Compare this to the reach needed for a 32" loom (about 18"). Even for children, a 32" Harp will work fine.

Two answers here. Yes and "should you?" Rugs that are to be walked on (as opposed to a rug that is decorative and to be hung on a wall) will need a great amount of warp tension while on the loom and your weft will need to be beaten into the warp with a great amount of "vigor." Because any rigid heddle loom is, by design, lightweight, this factor should be considered if you are thinking rugs. As a point of comparison, rug weavers normally use looms that have beams that are 4-6" plus in diameter, frames made with 4-6" thick timbers and weigh 300-400 pounds. So again, our answer is yes and "should you?"

This may be the number one question we receive about weaving. So take note. The genesis of this problem can normally be traced back to the quality of the warp you have tensioned and wound on the back beam. Your warp must be wound on with significant tension and that tension must be maintained from the first rotation of the back beam to the last rotation. We suggest 2 things that will help: First, always have 2 people wind on the warp. It is not possible to do this by yourself and get good results, as you will discover. Second, be sure to use a good material for your warp foundation. We suggest our beam sticks. Watch this video showing beam sticks. These, along with that second person helping you will get the job done correctly and will remove the problem you describe (and a few more).

There are any number of ways to warp a loom. New Voyager offers 2 suggestions and both can be seen on our web site or in several of our videos. This "alternative" method uses a long cord to secure the dowel (which has your warp ends looped over the dowel) to the back beam by stitching the beam and dowel together. Better to see pictures or watch a video, so please give a look.

What is important to always consider is that the warp you want to use must work appropriately with your heddle selection. What does that mean? Your warp must pass through the holes and slots on your heddle so that when you raise and lower the heddle, when you bring it forward to beat your project, the warp ends move through the slots and holes without constriction. So you must match up your warp selection with the heddle you will be using. The Kromski Harp has 3 dent sizes available - 8, 10 and 12 dent. You can change your dent size or you can choose a different warp material (or do both). You can always use a thinner warp in any dent size, but you never want to attempt to use a warp that will be too thick/heavy for the dent size you want to use.

There are techniques when weaving that can prevent this from happening. But the likely culprit is how you tensioned the warp on the rear beam. Use a very stiff foundation or our beam sticks. This will prevent the warps ends on your left and right edges from collapsing while they are tensioned onto the beam and being loose when you weave.

To a certain extent this will always happen, but you can limit the effect by making sure that when you throw your weft material, you allow enough slack in it so that when you beat your project, you have enough length to allow it to do the over/under thing without pulling in from the left and right sides. Practice.

Not difficult but the key is staying organized and working systematically. Let me break it down to the smallest warp in the world - 4 ends. We will call these ends 1, 2, 3 and 4 from left to right.

Number 1 will go thru a hole on the rear heddle and numbers 2, 3, and 4 will go through the first slot next to number 1. Coming directly forward to the front heddle, ends 1, 2 and 4 will go thru the same slot while number 3 will go through the hole next to the first slot.

When using just one heddle, you are weaving with the heddle in the up or down position for a total of 2 weaving positions. With 2 heddles, you have to manage both heddles so you have 4 weaving positions. It looks something like this:

Position 1 - both heddles up
Position 2 - front heddle up, rear heddle down
Position 3 - front heddle down, rear heddle up
Position 4 - both heddles down.